Wine Advocate (David Schildknecht): “From old vines in the St.Urbans-Hof’s prime Zickelgarten portion of this heterogeneous “single vineyard,” the 2006 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese smells of madarin, kumquat, orange blossom, and in the mouth too, the combination of citrus and honey dominate, with baked apple and vanilla emerging as the wine opens. Eighty grams of residual sugar are reduced to a whisper in the remarkable balancing act that also marries doughy substantiality and a creamy texture to delicacy, juicy citrus refreshment, and levity of finish. A fine sense of wet slate suffuses this entire, memorable performance. This wine will make an extraordinary aperitif, and should develop admirably for 30-40 years.
Nik Weis has proven himself a master not only at judging balance in Riesling, but at successfully marketing well-balanced but not legally trocken wine to his countrymen. (Chapeau!) That was a good thing this vintage, he says, because he thinks many of the high must-weight wines he harvested would not have balanced either at significantly higher alcohol or residual sugar. I agree, having found his wines in the lower realms of residual sugar especially successful. The vintage demanded compromises in harvest strategy if not in ultimate quality. “There were wonderful shriveled berries in the Laurentius Lay,” for example, relates Weis, “and had I had another fifteen pickers or another few days, we could have harvested a Trockenbeerenauslese” as happened in 2005, when one of the greatest wines of the vintage resulted. “But I had Kabinett grapes in Piesport at that point that would no longer have been Kabinett if I had waited while the whole crew went picky gepidelt hatten. We had to deal in full parcels this year, not select.” The 2006 wines here were taken from their lees and bottled sooner than in most years.” 93/100 pts
Wine Spectator: “Exotic and creamy, with passion fruit, pineapple and orange rind aromas and flavors. Rich and fleshy, with a lively structure underneath. Has fine harmony and a lingering, orange-tinged finish. Drink now through 2030. 300 cases made. –BS” 91/100 pts