Wine Advocate (David Schildknecht): “The 2007 Piesporter Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett comes from shy-bearing selection of vines in recently reconstructed steep red slate terraces which, Haart asserts, lend themselves to acid retention and to residually sweet wine (whereas he thinks Kreuzwingert’s deeper soils have more talent for dry-tasting Riesling). Snappy pungency of lemon and grapefruit zest in the nose and bright refreshment on the palate are backed by fresh peach, black currant, and marzipan, tinged with salt for additional invigoration and exhibit a sappy persistence that is quite lip-smacking. In contrast with the generic Haart Kabinett, here 59 grams of residual sugar seem almost magically wicked-away in the finish, but at the same time, the wine’s bitter fruit pit element is nicely integrated. I am reminded of the sort of uncanny balance at high residual sugar that one often encounters in Zilliken’s Rieslings from the Saar. This should certainly merit at least a dozen years’ attention.
Theo and son Johannes Haart had memorable success in 2007, a vintage Haart senior compares in quality and style with 2001, and whose wines he thinks will need longer than usual to show their true meddle. This year’s surprisingly numerous dry-tasting wines seem on the whole marginally disappointing, although those wines too deserve patience.” 90/100 pts