Wine Advocate (David Schildknecht Feb 2010): “The 2008 Dhronhofberger Riesling which, like its trocken counterpart, bears only ‘Hofberg’ on its presentation label, and which Adam refers to as ‘feinherb’, although that word appears on neither was harvested at around the same must weight as its legally dry counterpart, but from higher yields and from fruit that was, says Adam, ‘just lightly affected with botrytis’. We’re only at 18 grams of residual sugar here, and the wine tastes virtually dry, but this difference along with a concomitant percent less of alcohol has a huge effect to the wine’s balance. Aromatically intense and luscious grapefruit, along with green tea and brown spices lead to a generous, subtly creamy palate with a dynamic, nuanced interaction of fruit and spice with saline, stony nuances, all underlain by richness of nut oils. This displays sap and grip as well as energy in the finish but is free of any bitterness and evinces vintage-typical buoyancy. I expect it will be well worth following for a decade.
‘When everybody else had started picking,’ reports Andreas Adam, ‘we went out and de-leafed; then waited a week, and then starting picking.’ And while lees contact is always part of the Adam regimen, he is sure (as am I) that it was especially effective in buffering 2008 acids. Except for his long legally trocken wine, Adam bottled in early Spring to preserve freshness and natural CO2, but he did not rack and filter until immediately beforehand. (For further details concerning young Adam’s distinctive vinificatory approach inspired by notions of how Mosel wines were rendered before the 1970s as well as by the practices of Adam’s one-time boss Reinhard Lowenstein consult my earlier reports.) This was really a Kabinett year, opines Adam who admits he isn’t old enough to have previously witnessed one!” 91/100Pts