Wine Advocate: “Adam’s 2010 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling feinherb – reflecting his shared vineyard ownership and collaboration with Julian Haart (for a review of whose outstanding first solo efforts, see elsewhere in this report) – was not encouraged to reach legal Trockenheit because, in Adam’s words, ‘had we done so, the alcohol would have gone well above the 12.5% alcohol this already has.’ Given 30 grams of residual sugar, he can say that again! Yet, there is but the merest (needless to say, easily integrated) hint of sweetness to be found here, too little for the description ‘semi-dry’ to be anything but misleading. I would be the last to disagree with Adam that this Riesling of ‘enormous density, (considerable) residual sugar, high acidity, and high ripeness manages the momentum to achieve elegance’ … except that he prefaced the above quote with the word ‘despite’ (trotz), whereas this wine’s achievement doesn’t strike me as the least inexplicable or improbable. It is if the parameters of Grosses Gewachs had been observed that we might well have expected a massive and inelegant body-builder of a Riesling! Apple, yellow plum, and pineapple effusively scent and lusciously saturate the plush, satiny palate of this site-typical wine, which at the same time is laced with piquant nut oils; threaded with juicy, vivacious fruit acids; and transparent to subtly smoky, crushed stone, and somehow crystalline minerality, leading to a finish of vibrancy and incandescence. These old terraces, incidentally, suffered Adam’s worst 2010 crop loss, their yield working out to 20 hectoliters per hectare, or slightly less than half of what he considers normal. I cannot imagine this wine weaving its spell over less than a 15-year lifespan.