2011 Immich-Batterieberg C.A.I. Riesling Kabinett


Wine Advocate: 90/100

“exceptional value”



Professional reviews:

Wine Advocate (David Schildknecht): “Fifteen in part geographically disparate contract lots informed the 30,000 bottles of Immich-Batterieberg 2011 Riesling Kabinett C. A. I., including – as in 2010 – a majority of Dhronhofberger from Kohl-Staudt Weinhofgut Amtsgarten, considerable Oberemmel and Wiltinger Riesling courtesy of Moritz Gogrewe, plus contributions from Kinheim, Krov, Wolf (all near-by) and Enkirch itself. Genuinely dry – though not labeled as such – this is consistent with the standards set by its two predecessors, emphasizing levity, precision of flavor, and genuine interactivity. The vividness and lusciousness of flower-garlanded white peach and lime are every bit as much Mosel archetypes as are this wine’s mouthwatering salinity, wet stone undertone, and shimmering sense of transparency to nuances that can only – for lack of any better covering term – be called “mineral.” This exceptional value should serve well for at least the next 3-4 years. (The 2010 is even more exciting today than it was a year ago.)

Gernot Kollmann picked most of his best parcels in the third week of October, although botrytis pressure forced him to attack some vines earlier. Even with such a relatively late harvest and a vintage this ripe, he has been able to bottle wines with finished alcohol between 12-12.5%, in keeping with a continued goal of achieving levity. Vine age, genetic diversity, and lack of grafts have much to do, in Kollmann’s (and many another Mosel vintner’s) view, with their fruit ripening at relatively low must weights. These wines display the sort of balance that long-time (and last family) proprietor Georg Immich adored, although I regret that one certainly cannot credit as prophetic his belief that halbtrocken would, before the last century was out, become the sensible and aesthetically sensitive norm among “dry” German Rieslings! (Perhaps one day still, though.) He has managed to secure significant numbers of wholesome used barrels of 300-liter capacity, substituting these increasingly for classic 225-liter barriques; but reports that, sadly, he cannot locate suitable used 500- or 600-liter demi-muids nor, for the time being, afford to introduce newly constructed fuders on the classic Mosel model. (For more on the recent evolution – indeed, veritable resurrection – of this venerable estate, please consult my reports in issues 199 and 192. The first, strikingly delicious Chardonnay-dominated wine has appeared from Weingut Rinke’s dramatically-steep and -restored mussel-chalk terraces on the Upper Mosel, a Kollmann project about which I’ll write further in future, though that arguably belongs in the context of covering neighboring Luxemburg, or even Champagne.)” 90/100 pts

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