Wine Advocate: Review by Stephan Reinhardt eRobertParker.com # 217 (Feb 2015) Drink 2020 – 2040
From the cooler, late-ripening part of the Hofberg, the 8% alcohol 2013 Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett was fermented 80% in stainless steel and 20% in fuder. Bottled with approximately 50 grams of un-fermented sugar and 9.3 grams of acidity it opens lovely clear, pure and floral on the nose. Racy and lovely sweet on the palate this fascinating elegant and piquant Kabinett is a sort Scharzhofberger à la Scharzhof from the Mosel. Really stunning and persistently salty.
Andreas Johannes Adam is a younger top name in the Mosel. Although he is about to bottle his 13th vintage, only insiders know about the outstanding qualities of Adam’s Rieslings of which the 2013s are among the finest I have tasted for this report. Regarding clarity, balance, lightness, finesse and elegance, but also the confident style of his 2013s, Adam is already very close to the icon producers of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Rarely have I seen a producer like him excelling in all categories from dry to sweet. Adam, who is currently reconstructing his estate in Dhron, cultivates 4.5 hectares in the Dhrohner Hofberg (60-year-old vines, a smaller part of them un-grafted) and, together with Julian Haart, in the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. (Thus the Piesport wines are labeled Adam & Haart.) Since 2014 Adam also cultivates the 0.26-hectare Einzellage monopole Dhrohner Häs’chen. Adam uses stainless steeland wooden casks to ferment and age his wines. He bottles most of them in March. Of the 2013s, only the Hofberg Riesling trocken was bottled in May. The estate Riesling is fermented in stainless steel only but, as he explains, “the higher the quality of the dry wines the higher is the portion of fuders in which the wines are fermented and aged.” The sweet Kabinett has “20 to 30 per cent” of cask to get “more mouth feeling especially in vintages with higher acidities,” whereas Spätlesen and Auslesen are fermented in stainless steel exclusively. All of Adam’s wines ferment spontaneously and almost every parcel is fermented in a particular bin except of the smallest, i.e. a 229-square-meter parcel in the Hofberg.” 91+/100 pts
The Fine Wine Review: “The outstanding Hofberg Kabinett is medium-weight, concentrated, very dense, and penetrating with mineral peach fruit. 8% stated alcohol.” 92/100 pts