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2014 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewächs

50.00 48.00

Vinous: 96/100
Wine Advocate: 96/100
John Gilman: 95+/100
Wein Plus: 95/100

“the 2014 Felseneck GG is the finest of an amazing range of dry wines, but only be a whisper this year. The bouquet offers up a youthfully complex and very precise nose of grapefruit, lemon, smoke, a complex base of slate, wild yeasts,citrus peel and a topnote of lemongrass. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure andutterly refined, with a superb core, great focus and grip, ripe, racy acids and stunning length on the perfectly balanced and tour de force finish. Great, great juice”

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Beschrijving

Professional reviews:

Vinous (David Schildknecht): “The Fröhlichs’ signature site has never, in my experience, faced such formidable competition from their other Grosse Gewächse (which are also more numerous than ever, thanks to the post-2012 inclusion of Stromberg) but it rises to the occasion with the greatest clarity, delicacy, refreshment and refinement of this year’s amazing collection. The aromas are less effusive and the flavors more restrained than in several of its siblings, but what a wealth of subtleties! Juicy apple and white currant are shimmeringly infused with mint, wintergreen, iris, and crystalline, stony, iodine-like as well as mouthwatering saline mineral notes, ushering-in a near-endless finish.” 96/100 pts

Wine Advocate: “The 2014 Felseneck Riesling trocken GG is very clear, bright, pure and fine in the herbal and salty-flavored nose. Piquant, dense and juicy on the palate, this is concentrated yet filigreed Riesling with typical slate spiciness and a filigreed structure.” 96/100 pts

John Gilman (View from the Cellar): “As is so often the case in the Fröhlich cellars, the 2014 Felseneck GG is the finest of an amazing range of dry wines, but only be a whisper this year. The bouquet offers up a youthfully complex and very precise nose of grapefruit, lemon, smoke, a complex base of slate, wild yeasts,citrus peel and a topnote of lemongrass. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure andutterly refined, with a superb core, great focus and grip, ripe, racy acids and stunning length on the perfectly balanced and tour de force finish. Great, great juice. 2023-2060.” 95+/100 pts

Wein-Plus: “Noch unruhige, dabei tiefe und vielschichtige, recht dunkle Nase nach Kräutern, Zitrusfrüchten und Pfirsich mit zart floralen Nuancen und deutlicher Mineralik. Dicht und ziemlich saftig im Mund, geschliffene, reife Frucht mit sehr feiner, präsenter Säure, kühl, dicht und nachhaltig am Gaumen, feine Kräutertöne sowie zart florale und dunkelbeerige Noten, noch leicht hefig, ausgezeichnete Substanz und Tiefe, bleibt dabei sehr elegant, vielschichtig, noch kaum entwickelt, viel Biss, langer, saftiger, zupackender Abgang.” 95/100 pts

Vinous: “‘For us, 2014 is a grandiose vintage of extreme refinement,’ opined Tim Fröhlich. ‘I think we had relative good luck on the Nahe,’ he added, ‘with October rain only overnight, not during the days, and not too much of it.’ As in 2013, Fröhlich put a ten-person team to work beginning in August, and by harvest’s peak, 35 people were picking. Through early culling of any fruit that showed even a bit of botrytis, Fröhlich achieved a normal volume at harvest, except in a couple of sites with young vines and deeper soils that had been fertilized and succumbed to rot. He claims to have had his pickers smell any bunch that looked even remotely imperfect, to guard against acetification, adding that ‘we have never before enforced such a rigorous smell test.’ The parcels for basic Riesling began to be picked on October 4, he reported, ‘and the Grosse Gewächse not that long afterward. The bit of rain that we continued to have plumped the berries a bit, so that we didn’t achieve quite as high must weights as we usually have, but in retrospect that made this a very educational vintage. In the best old vines, I had perfect flavors, just at only 90 Oechsle; the acids were ideal at eight [grams], and you could tell that the wine would have finesse but also more than enough power. Those grapes weren’t going to get one bit better. We were able to let the musts ferment more completely dry – this year’s spontaneous fermentations were as complete as I have ever had – and still end up with half a percent less alcohol than normal.’ Photographs with newspaper front pages in the foreground confirm some parcels of Riesling picked as late as the third week in October still hung entirely rot-free – a rare sight in this vintage. Fröhlich’s collection is as consistently fine as any achieved with this grape in 2014 and, more remarkably, in the illustrious recent history of this estate. Prefermentative skin contact was shorter than normal and limited to the fruit from the top parcels, in keeping with Fröhlich’s vision of 2014 as a vintage of ‘finesse.’ Most of the Grosse Gewächse spent only a month or two in cask, and all came off their full lees six or eight weeks before midsummer bottling, measures taken to preserve their refined structure.”

Extra informatie

Gebied

Duitsland, Nahe

Jaargang

2014

Predikaat

Grosses Gewächs

Producent

Schäfer-Fröhlich

Kleur

Wit