2016 Keller Riesling “von der fels” trocken

25.00

Vinous: 92/100
Wine Front: 94+/100
Jancis Robinson: 17/20

“The vineyard sources for this bottling range across all of Keller’s top sites, though Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde combined make up close to 90% of its volume.”

Uitverkocht

Beschrijving

Morstein: Toen Felix deze wijn proefde in maart 2017 vond hij het de beste von der Fels (vdf) die hij tot dan toe had geproefd. De wijn had zoveel inhoud en concentraat maar was ook zo lekker drinkbaar en zat vol energie. Twee jaar later in maart 2019 schonk Klaus Peter deze wijn uit 3 liter tijdens de 2018 jaargang-proeverij. Het is ongekend hoeveel 2 jaar flesrijping met een wijn kan doen. Het jonge, wilde en energieke had plaats gemaakt voor meer diepgang en hoe geconcentreerd de wijn is viel nog meer op. De meeste wijnen uit 2016 zijn niet speels of gemakkelijk, maar serieus, rechtlijnig en weinig vergevingsgezind. Deze vdf is in die zin een typische 2016 want geen terraswijn maar serieuze riesling van de meester uit Florsheim-Dalsheim.

Professional reviews:

Vinous: “Fresh apple and lime are suffused with chalky crushed stone on a forceful nose and a firm, brightly juicy palate. This finishes with implacable, vibratory grip and features a mouthwatering, crustacean-like alliance of sweet-saline animal and mineral elements, but along with that come chalk, crushed stone, peat and ash. Nor does this multifacetedly mineral libation stint on citric refreshment. Like last year’s Von der Fels, it issues exclusively from vines of some 30 or more years of age, thereby perpetuating a short supply in comparison with the volume of most Von der Fels bottlings prior to 2015. (The vineyard sources for this bottling range across all of Keller’s top sites, though Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde combined make up close to 90% of its volume.)” 92/100 pts

Jancis Robinson: “Still has the lemon/grapefruit notes of the estate Riesling trocken but with a little more complexity of minerality, not quite smoky more dusty, in a Chablis-like way. So mouth-watering it is almost chewy, with plenty of extract. Lightly mineral on the palate too and with a long, fresh citrus tail.” 17/20 pts

Wine Front (Gary Walsh): “Every now and then, when I’m actually out at a fancy restaurant, and I see Keller on the list, I usually order it. Savoury, smoky, almost cheesy scents over green apple sorbet, mango and lime, but as ever with Keller, it’s the texture that gets you involved. This is particularly chalky, crunchy and interesting, with that gin and tonic granita freshness/bitterness on the long finish. Wunderbar.” 94+/100 pts

Wine Advocate (Stephan Reinhardt ): “The 2016 Riesling Von Der Fels is from up to 25-year-old vines in the Kirchspiel, Hubacker and Abtserde. Its bouquet is clear, super ripe and fresh as well as intense and calcareous. On the plate this is a pure and fresh old-school Riesling with a lot of grip and tension. Very chalky, terribly young but promising. Needs time.” 90/100 pts

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