Morstein: Een geweldige Stromberg. Pijnlijk mineraal en, tijdens een proeverij begin september 2018 bij Schäfer-Fröhlich, onze favoriet.
Vinous (David Schildknecht): “White peach, gooseberry and lime are laced in the nose with chamomile, peppermint and pennyroyal. Those juxtapositions anticipate the dynamic of ripeness and citricity as well as of soothing and pungently invigorating elements that characterize this entire amazing performance. There is remarkable sheer succulence and intensity of glowingly pit-tinged white peach, zesty lime and crunchy, seedy gooseberry on the surprisingly silken palate. It’s as if concentration of fruit flavors were inversely proportional to the Stromberg’s rocky, virtually topsoil-free surface. But this is not to suggest that mineral flavor elements are short-changed. Far from it! That “dark minerality” that Fröhlich deems can be unpacked as some combination of smoky peat and black tea with stone suffusion and alkaline accents. “As ripe as they might get,” notes Fröhlich, “the berries on these old vines never lose their greenish tint or make the transition to deep gold,” and that is reflected in the vivid freshness and juicy animation of a long, fugal finish that tingles the tongue and tugs at the cheeks. If Bockenau’s virtues went virtually unnoticed until the 21st century, those of today’s Stromberg sites were almost completely unknown until Schäfer-Fröhlich produced their first, vintage 2012 Grosses Gewächs showcasing them. “When we had to demonstrate to the VDP with historical evidence that this site was Grosses Gewächs-worthy,” relates Fröhlich, “we uncorked a [nearly-dry] 1957 Spätlese from my grandfather that was unbelievably fresh and fine.” 96/100 pts
John Gilman: “The Stromberg GG here is often not quite as elegant as the very top grand cru bottlings, but this is not the case in 2017, as the lower yields from the frosts have given this wine a precision I can seldom recall in previous young vintages. The bouquet is pure and complex, wafting from the glass in a superb blend of grapefruit, tart orange, lime zest, ocean-like salinity, white flowers and a great base of minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and racy, with outstanding mid-palate intensity, seamless balance and a very long, focused and superbly complex finish. This is the finest young vintage of Stromberg I have ever tasted from Tim Fröhlich! 2025-2085.” 96+/100 pts
Stuart Pigott (jamessuckling.com): “It’s hard to imagine how a riesling could have a more northerly personality than this cool, delicate and very elegant wine. Great balance and very long, saline finish. From a forgotten, top site that Tim Fröhlich reactivated in 2012. Drink or hold. 96/100